94 Toyota Camry 4 cylinder (5SFE)
question = i have a oil leak...the oil is on the block around the oil filter but does not look like the filter is leaking
Thanks for your question. Sorry I took so long to get back to you. I had wanted to take a peek under the hood of a 94 Camry before writing back to see if the 5SFE motor has an oil cooler or pedestal, or whether the oil filter just screws right onto the block. The last few days have been hectic and I haven't had the time. So I'll answer the question the best I can.
Simple things first: have you checked to make sure that the oil filter was not "double gasketed"? Sometimes the old gasket will stick to the block and cause a leak.
Second: Try a new oil filter. I have seen many cheap oil filters that leak from the crimp. We use OE Toyota filters and have never had any problems. If you already have a Toyota filter on, skip this step.
Now, if you have a oil cooler or pedestal, then try replacing it's O-ring. Should be fairly easy since the oil filter is on the front of the block.
If there is no pedestal or oil cooler and the oil filter was not double gasketed or defective, then the block may be cracked. I have never seen this happen and it is extremely unlikely. To find out for sure you could do a dye penetrant crack check. The kit is available from Goodson -- www.goodson.com -- The following link has pictures of the test being done to a cylinder head -- http://www.artsautomotive.com/crackcheck.htm
You may want to try to "witness" the leak before taking stuff apart. One method would be to clean the area very well using brake cleaner then spray some leak trace powder on the area where you suspect the leak. If you can't find leak trace powder (it's made by Kent) you can use athlete's foot spray. Get the kind that leaves a white residue. Have a friend start the engine and watch carefully for the leak. It may help to rev the engine to 2000 RPM to build more oil pressure and create more splash.
If all else fails you can take it to a mechanic who has a UV dye setup. He'll add some dye that glows bright green under a black light to the motor oil, which should make finding the leak easy. You could also buy the setup yourself but even though they've come way down in price ($200) it's still a bit expensive for a DIYer.
Good luck, Paul
1994 Mazda 626
question = when it cold outside and i drive my car it hard to see because the window is foggy.what button do i have to press tomake it stop if im driving a maza 626 1994
Sorry to take so long to respond. To get your windshield defogged, move the mode selector to defrost, turn the blower to high, set the blend lever to hot, press the air conditioning button if you have it, and set the inlet air lever to "fresh" rather than "recirc". That combination should work the best. It also helps to keep the inside of the windshield clean. If it is still takes too long to defog you can try one of the anti fog treatments available at your local auto parts store. One last thing -- if there is any standing water in your car (i.e. a puddle in the trunk from poorly sealed tail lights) then the windshield will be much harder to defog
Good luck, Paul
1997 Mazda Millenum
question = I am trying to pack the rear wheel bearings and want to know what direction the large nut comes off, right or left hand threads. No luck getting it off thought I better ask the question before I go any further. Thanks
Hello, I am not as familiar with the Millennium (Millenia?) as I am with some of the other Mazdas. It's a little fancier than most of the cars we work on. We generally stick to the economy type cars and the basic sedans. However, I think I can help with your question. I am going to be a bit general in my answer. If you need to know for sure, call me (Paul) during the day and I'll look up the specifics.
Every 1988 and newer Mazda that I can think of uses sealed (non-serviceable) rear wheel bearings. So there is no need to pack them. (Or at least not way to pack them even if there is a need) The nuts that hold this type of wheel bearing in place have a very high torque spec. since there is no bearing preload to worry about. Frequently the torque spec. is something like 180 ft/lbs, which is tight enough that most mechanics need to use a 2 1/2 ft breaker bar or impact wrench to loosen the nut. A torque wrench should be used to tighten the nut (even though most mechanics don't use one). If you don't have a torque wrench, don't worry. Just make the nut very, very tight. As far as which direction to turn... Some pre 1988 Mazdas (with adjustable preload tapered roller bearings) had left hand thread on the left axle nut to prevent the nut from loosening up if the bearing and positioning tab on the washer failed. The idea was that the "loose direction" of the nut should be opposite the direction of the wheel rotation in case the bearing seized and the inner race began to spin. Otherwise the wheel bearing nut might loosen and the wheel might fall off. You can spot a left hand thread rear wheel bearing nut on a Mazda product by looking at its color. Left hand thread = gold or shiny silver. Right hand thread = black or dark grey.
Good luck with your Millennium. By the way, if you're going to continue to do your own service on your car, I'd urge you to get a factory workshop manual from the Mazda dealer. It will make things much easier. A smart person with a factory manual, a hefty tool budget, and adequate patience can do almost any repair to his or her car.
Hope this helps, Paul
199? Mazda 929
question = I need to replace the front rotors and wheel bearings on my Mazda 929. I understand that the bearings need to be pressed into the rotor. I have no commercial tools or presses. Could I simply use a regular workbench vise with wood blocks or something to prevent damage to surfaces? Is there anything I should do, not do, watch out for, etc. Thanks for any advice.
Hello, I wouldn't recommend trying to press the wheel bearings on a vise. The jaws will not open wide enough and I doubt that a vise could generate enough pressure. If your stuck in a remote area you might be able to use a very large slide hammer to remove the hub from the bearing with the knuckle still on the car (after removing the axle nut of course). Then use big hammer and drift punch to remove the outer race from the knuckle after picking the balls and cages out (after removing the snap ring of course). A hammer and a block of wood could be used on top of the old outer bearing race to drive the new bearing into the knuckle. Then put the block of wood under the hub (on the side with the wheel studs) on the ground. Lay the knuckle with the bearing, snap ring and seals already installed on top of the hub snout. Use a block of wood on top of a bushing driver to drive the INNER race onto the hub snout. Do not drive on the knuckle or outer race as this will ruin the new bearing. If you are near a town, don't waste your time, just take the knuckle/bearing/hub assembly to a machine shop and have them do it for you. It'll probably only cost $35 or so and after all of the hammering you'll barely be able to feel your hands, especially after the slide hammering... The money will be well spent. One other note: Mazda 626/MX6/929 and Millenia's often have the axle splines stuck into the inside of the hub and can be a real pain to take apart. Don't ruin the threads on the axle shaft by hammering directly on it. Use a brass block or something to protect it.
Good luck with your project, Paul
1988 Ford F150 (we don't work on Fords, but I think many Japanese car owners might be interested in the answer to this general question)
hello, will this [R134a retrofit kit] work on my 1988 Ford F-150 Lariat XLT? http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=341626&BQ=jcw2 Need your theory.
Hi John, Well, it looks like a pretty minimal retrofit kit-- just fittings, refrigerant, and oil. I have a few problems with the kit to consider.
Problem 1: Old mineral oil not flushed from the AC system can mix with the new ester oil and form globs of gook inside the AC system that will lead to lack of lubrication and compressor failure. Most experts agree that 75% of the old mineral oil should be removed from the AC system before changing to ester oil (in case you are wondering, mineral oil will not work with R134a). How is one to remove the mineral oil without opening the system?
Problem 2: How will you be able to put the proper amount of refrigerant in the system with out a scale or gauges? The sight glass on the truck was designed for use with R12 and will be useless with R134a. Maybe the manufacturer of the kit wants you to add small amounts until the system starts to work? Ask JC Whitney to fax you the instructions for the kit before you buy.
Problem 3: If your AC system still has some R12 charge, how will you store and dispose of it. It's bad for the planet to release it. Possible solution: a local garage may be willing to recover the R12 at no charge since it is very expensive and they can recycle and sell it to someone else.
Problem 4: In California you need a license to buy refrigerant and work on AC systems. If you are not in California, this may not be a problem for you.
Problem 5: If your AC system has a leak, how will you be able to find and repair it? We normally add UV dye the the oil and use a black light to check for leaks.
Having said all that, it might be worth a try. It's an older truck and the worst that could happen is the AC could stop working (which is it's current state anyway). Please dispose of the R12 properly though.
Good luck, Paul
1993 Honda Civic
question = My air conditioning compressor only works when the car is at idle. I had it charged with 134a and it didn't change anything
Hello, Weird problem. I wonder if the AC compressor clutch is slipping. You could test this by seeing whether power to the AC compressor clutch remains with engine off idle.
Here is another possibility: I'm guessing you (or someone) has converted the system, since R134a is usually found in cars 1994 or later and you have a 1993. Maybe the system is overcharged. With a 134a conversion only 75% of the original charge is required. If the system were overcharged the high pressure cutout switch might be cutting power to the compressor once the compressor starts spinning faster (and therefore increasing the pressure). Hope this helps.
Good luck, Paul
1991 Honda Accord EX
question = Hi, i have a problem with my front windshield defroster not working? The back one works.When pushing the button for from windshield defroster ,the hot air blows out of the control panel vents,not the windshield dash vents? I would like to know what the problem is? Thanks
Hello, The Accord EX should have push button control of the "mode" or as Honda calls it "function control", both of which are fancy ways of saying where the warm or cold air is directed. This is not a common problem on your generation of Honda Accord, so I don't have a quick answer. The first thing I would recommend checking is the Function Control Motor, which you can find under the dash on the driver's side of the car. Put your head down in the footwell area looking at the floor mat. Turn your head 90 deg. to the right and you should see a small (maybe 2 inch x 4 inch) rectangle with wires going to it and a lever attached to the back side. With the key in the "on" position have a friend press the various mode buttons on the dash (defrost, vent, floor, etc). You should be able to see the lever moving as the buttons are pressed. If not, that's the problem. Next question, why doesn't it move. If the lever is kinda jerking but not moving, the likely problem is a stripped gear in the Function Control Motor. If the lever is doing nothing at all, then the problem could be a wiring, the Function Control Motor, or the Heater Control Panel with the Function Control Switches. The fuse is not a possibility because it also powers the blower relay; if the fuse was bad, the blower would not work either. Try tapping the Function Control Motor with a screwdriver with the key on and a friend pressing the buttons. If it starts to move when you tap, then it's likely the Function Control Motor. Try mashing the Function Control Switch or tapping on the Heater Control Panel with the key on. If the Function Control Motor lever starts to move, the Heater Control Panel is likely bad. (They can be fixed most of the time by the way. The most common problem is with broken solders). If theses quickie diagnostic tips don't lead you to the problem, you'll likely need to take the car to a mechanic. To do further diagnosis you'd need tools and a manual.
Good luck, Paul
1999 Ford Expedition (we don't work on Fords, read the following question for a good example of why. Keep in mind this is a 3 year old car)
question = Are you familiar with the oil leak on 4.6l engines, particularly on the passenger side? I've had it repaired 4 times by the dealer, last time, 'supposedly' replacing the engine. The leak was gone the longest then, over 45,000 miles, but it's back again. It only leaks when the motor is running, so until someone can give me a for sure no doubt solution, I will live with it.
Hi, Sorry. I don't know a thing about Fords. We only work on 5 makes of Japanese cars: Acura, Honda, Toyota, Nissan and Mazda. If you're local, try Fred's Wrench House in Alameda for the repair. If not, he might be able to give you some advise over the phone (Fred that is).
Good Luck, Paul
aluminum structural stingers for aircraft
question = Your web-page shows how you do crack detection using penetrant dye on cylinder head. I am a senior in mechanical engineering at the University of Idaho and working on a project to bend aluminum structural stingers for aircraft. I would like to use penetrant die for initial crack detection. Do you have any suggestions on brands of dyes and application hints. Our project webpage is http://seniordesign.engr.uidaho.edu/JoggleZ/ if you would like a little more background information. Thanks for your time. Steve
Hi Steve, The dye can be purchased from Goodson, www.goodson.com (800) 533- 8010 part number AC-KIT. The longer you let it soak, the more likely you are to find small cracks. My only real tip: going through the motions does not guarantee finding a crack. Very, very, very careful inspection is the key. Sorry I took so long to get back to you. We've been having major computer problems and I've been focusing researching new database / POS systems and fixing our system as it crashes.
Good luck with your project, Paul
1995 Toyota Camry 4 cyl
question = when i turn on the a/c it comes on for 15 seconds and then the indicator light starts flashing and then no more cold air comes out?
Hello, On Toyotas this means the AC compressor clutch is slipping or the drive belt is loose. There is a revolution sensor in the AC compressor that lets the computer know how fast the compressor is spinning. The computer compares the AC compressor speed with the engine RPM. If they are not in sync, the light on the AC button blinks. Hope this helps, Paul
Part 2 1995 Toyota Camry 4 cyl
Does this mean I will have to pull my Compressor and replace it?
If "it" means the compressor clutch (which is available separately from the compressor), then probably. On some cars you can sneak the compressor clutch off without removing the compressor. However, it's a lot easier to the replace the clutch and set the clutch clearance with the compressor on the bench. If you do remove the compressor, you'll need to find a shop that can safely and legally recover the R134a from your system before the compressor is removed. A tip: on Toyotas, it's hard to put a feeler gauge under the AC compressor clutch driven plate because the pulley is in the way. Find zero clearance first (using drag as your guide), then add .035" (or whatever the clearance spec. is) in shims. Measure the shims with a micrometer if they are not marked. Another tip: Use AC oil on the new compressor line o-rings when you install them and be sure they stay very clean. The oil helps them to seal. Yet another tip: Check the compressor snout for damage. The inner race of the compressor clutch bearing should slide onto the snout easily, but should not allow any movement perpendicular to the axis of the snout (it shouldn't be loose). Good luck, Paul
1995 Honda Accord
question = How do I adjust the tension on the timing belt?
Hi, Loosen the timing belt/balance belt tensioner bolt and rotate the engine COUNTER CLOCKWISE one revolution (Hondas rotate opposite from most). Then tighten the bolt again. The 14mm tensioner bolt is often obscenely tight. Don't round the bolt head as this will make more work -- a lot more work. Use a newish, high quality 6 point socket to loosen the bolt. By the way, why do you want to adjust the belt? I've not seen many problems related to loose timing belts on this model. The balance shaft seals, on the other hand, frequently cause trouble. Good luck, Paul
1996 Honda Odyssey
question = i changed the rear pads and had the rotors turned. i can now hear the brakes braking in the rear. it is not scrapping, dragging, or grinding. it is just the brakes braking. i have been working on cars for a long time but this is a new one
Hi, The noise might be related to the finish on the brake rotors, the pads, or both. Regardless, the noise will likely lessen as the brake pads "bed in", provided there is not a mis-installed shim or some other problem with the brake job. Did you use Honda brake pads? We've found that they are the least likely to make noise. Did the machinist do a final pass on the brake lathe with a slow feed rate? (The rotor would look like a record if not) Did the machinist use a 120 grit sanding disc to put a cross hatch on the rotors? (The rotors would have a crosshatch pattern if so). Even if the answer is no to one or all of these questions, don't worry. The brake job should still be safe. Hope this helps, Paul
1997 Honda Passport
question = I am in the military in Italy and require some much needed advice from a professional. Last week my passport began to be very sluggish when starting. My check engine light also came on yesterday as I was tkaing it to the garage to have it diagnosed. My car has 82,878 miles on it. The mechanic said that the alternator was going bad and I needed to replace it. I had heard that if you remove the ground wire for the battery and the car still runs then it WAS NOT the alternator. We tried that and the car was fine. He also told me that he noticed that when you step on the accelerator the voltage meter goes from about 14 to 12 for a few seconds and then comes back up which is a direct indicator of the alternator. I tried to explain to him that ever since I baught this car in Jan of 02 that the voltage meter has done this. This is the first time however, that the car seemed like it did not want to start. Now it always starts but occassionaly it seemd as though to take more then just the quick turn of the key to start. I am not a mechanic by any means and really do not know anything about cars. But I do know that when you are in a foreign country often times you are prey for people to take advantage of. By this information can you > tell me if his assessment of the problem appears to be correct or if you have a different idea? Secondly, could you tell me if the check engine light coming on has anything to do with the particular number of miles it just hit and perhaps needs to have the regular check on the computer to reset the check engine light? Thank you very much for taking time to help people out in this forum. For someone like me that is far from home it really does mean alot. I look forward to hearing from you soon.
Hi, Wow, a lot of questions. I'm going the break the email into sections to make it easier for me to keep track. By the way, we don't actually work on the Passport because it's made by Isuzu, but your question is pretty general so I'll give it a shot.
1. Last week my passport began to be very sluggish when starting.
1. I'm assuming that you mean the engine cranks slowly when you turn the key to the start position. If not, write back and let me know. Usually slow cranking is caused by a weak battery (either discharged or diminished capacity), a bad starter has bad bearings/bushings that are causing drag, or a bad voltage drop to the battery (e.g.. loose battery terminal or corroded connection) Ask your mechanic to check the starter current draw and battery voltage when the car is being started. If the starter current draw exceeds 220 Amps or so, suspect the starter. If the battery voltage drops below 10.5 Volts or so, suspect the battery. If the battery voltage stays high, and the starter current draw stays low, suspect a voltage drop.
2. My check engine light also came on yesterday
2. This indicates that one of the computer sensors is reading out of range, either because the sensor is bad, the wiring to the sensor is bad, the computer is bad, or the value the sensor is measuring is out of range (for example: if the engine were overheating, the Coolant Temp Sensor would tell the computer the engine temp was out of range). I'd have to write a book to begin to explain all of the possibilities. So I'll stop here.
3. The mechanic said that the alternator was going bad and I needed to replace it. I had heard that if you remove the ground wire for the battery and the car still runs then it WAS NOT the alternator. We tried that and the car was fine.
3. Yes this is true, sort of. If the alternator was not working at all, the car would die. However, the alternator can be bad in ways that can not be checked with this test. Don't do this anymore though. You may end up doing damage to the electrical system. The alternator output will max out when you do this and may go too high for some of the sensitive electronics in your car.
4. He also told me that he noticed that when you step on the accelerator the voltage meter goes from about 14 to 12 for a few seconds and then comes back up which is a direct indicator of the alternator. I tried to explain to him that ever since I bought this car in Jan of 02 that the voltage meter has done this.
4. He's looking at the gauge on the car? You should find another mechanic.
5. Tell me if his assessment of the problem appears to be correct or if you have a different idea?
5. I really need more info on what the car does / doesn't do. Even then, long distance diagnosis is difficult and inaccurate. I'd recommend finding another mechanic you feel you can trust.
6. Secondly, could you tell me if the check engine light coming on has anything to do with the particular number of miles it just hit and perhaps needs to have the regular check on the computer to reset the check engine light?
6. No. The check engine light is likely not just a mileage counter. Some 1980s cars had an O2 sensor light, or a maint. req. light that would come on at a specific mileage. All lights that say "check engine" are part of the computer control warning system as far as I know.
7. I am not a mechanic by any means and really do not know anything about cars. But I do know that when you are in a foreign country often times you are prey for people to take advantage of.
7. Auto repair consumers in this country frequently get ripped off too I'm afraid.
8. Thank you very much for taking time to help people out in this forum. For someone like me that is far from home it really does mean alot.
8. Thanks for the thanks. That's why we do it. Sorry I couldn't give you a "real" answer. I wish you luck, Paul
1988 Honda Civic
question = I've recently had a timing belt break on me because of the tensioner seizing up and after replacing it the car doesn't run properly other than @ idle. It has very little throttle response until it gets high enough rpm then it runs ok, but as soon as you stop it seems like its flooding out if you push the gas and you have to let it idle cost until it picks up a little speed the slowly press the gas to get it going again. I've check the spark plugs which I've just replace and they are ok the distributor was a little dirty but not that would cause all that trouble , a friend said it may be the throttle cable but i don't see how. I think maybethe cattalitic converter is clogged any thoughts ?
Hello, My initial thought was incorrect cam timing. Retarded cam timing would cause very poor acceleration with a smooth idle. I don't think that you have any bent valves because A) the 1988-1991 Honda Civic usually does not bend valves when the timing belt breaks (even though Honda says it might), and B) the symptom is not right -- with a bent valve you would expect a rough idle that smoothed out at higher RPM. Are you sure a frozen tensioner caused the broken belt? I once had an Acura Integra that had a seizing distributor bearing cause the cam timing to jump right after a timing belt job. A customer came in with a broken timing belt. I replaced the timing belt. The customer brought the car back after a day with a horrible lack of power. I found the cam timing was off. I figured I had screwed up while setting the cam timing, so I corrected the cam timing and let the car go. The next day the customer was back again with the same symptom and the cam timing was once again off. I found that the distributor bearing was seizing and since it's attached to the cam opposite the cam sprocket, when it seizes, the cam and cam sprocket seize with it. Anyway, you might want to check to make sure the distributor spins freely. You should also double check the timing marks you are using. Honda sometimes uses the same cam sprocket with different engines. The cam sprocket will have one set of marks on the front of the cam sprocket for one engine, say a 1.5L and another set of marks on the back of the sprocket for different engine, say a 1.6L. So verify the timing marks in at least two publications, since I've found misprints in almost every brand of manual, none are right 100% of the time, so it is best to find 2 that agree. If the cam timing, distributor bearing, and ignition timing all check out OK and you want to eliminate the catalytic converter as a possibility, just disconnect the header pipe from the exhaust manifold and run the engine. If it runs great, check the converter for blockage. If it runs the same just louder, the converter is not a problem. I suspect your problem is related to the timing belt though, since it happened after the timing belt broke. But you never know; there are sometimes coincidences. After this, therefore because of this is a logical fallacy, but it's good enough to guide the direction of your search.
Good luck, Paul
PS. You should also check the distributor rotor for a hole in the plastic above the shaft, the ignition coil for signs of arcing near the output tower, the distributor cap for a damaged coil coil carbon button (they break on installation a lot of times; it's a tight fit past the battery.
1997 Honda Civic
question = I have a problem with my a/c system. First off its not a factory installed ac so the dealership is useless. When I turn on the ac the compressor does not kick on. I thought it might be the relay so I purchased a new relay. after removing the old relay I still had no compressor power. I unplegged the relay and used the test light. Once test light touched the relay base hat controls the ac itmaded a clicking noise then kicked on. So by doing that I guess that I bypassed the relay or something . My question is this. Do i need to go to a wrecking yard and see about getting a new wiring harness that runs from the drier to the relay or can i try and just switch the connectors ?
Hi, Since you don't have a dealer installed or OE system, I'll speak very generally. If the relay clicks and the compressor kicks on when you ground the compressor relay with your test light, I would recommend looking at the path from the relay to ground. On most systems we work with, it goes something like this: relay > high side cutout switch > low side cutout switch > blower switch to ground. Some systems also have a temperature switch on the evaporator. I would first check to the low side cutout switch. This switch will prevent the AC from coming on if the pressure drops below 10 - 40 PSI, depending on the system. If you by-pass this switch with a paperclip and the AC compressor comes on, then you may need some R134a added to the system. If you can't find the problem, you might want to check your area for shops that install aftermarket AC. They would likely be the best equipped to fix it. Hope this helps, Paul
1997 Acura Integra
question = Hello I bought a car that had previous had a rearend acident has a certficate of rebuilt title issued. the car is a beauty runs great the problem is that I got rear end same place. The insurance says its thier only paying 2,178.95 for my car and the market value is 10,830.00 I just cant see the price going down that much when it was a perfect car. I paid much more for the car. Please help! thank you
Wow! What a pain! Dealing with insurance companies can very difficult, especially when they make a lowball offer and stonewall you.
The very first thing you should do is to get a copy of your insurance policy and read it over until you have a good understanding of all the main points. Negotiating without having read the policy is like playing a board game without knowing the rules; you have to rely on your opponent (who wants to win and has played the game before) to tell you the rules. Maybe they'll be honest, but maybe they will fail to notify you of rules that might work in your favor. Or worse yet, make up rules as they go along.
Next, you should find comparable cars in the classified ads. If you can find a 1997 Integra with a salvaged title and high asking price, all the better. Be sure to keep very detailed notes and get the VIN # where possible. You can use the stuff you dig up to dispute the insurance company's claim that your car is only worth $2178.95. You can also use your purchase price as proof of the car's value. However, this is not as good as the comparable car prices because a) some time has passed since you bought the car, and b) the insurance company might take the attitude "it's not our fault you over-paid for your car" You might want to get the book, "How To Sue Anyone For Up To $25,000 and Win". www.nolo.com (if you are living in the Bay Area)
Keep in mind I'm a mechanic and not a lawyer.
I wish you luck, Paul
1982 Honda Prelude
question = We are in a desperate search for a front drivers side strut assembly for a 1982 Honda Prelude, our car is currently being repaired at a local Auto Repair Garage, and both the Garage and ourselves cannot seem to locate such a part. We were told that such a part requires a core (the old part) be recycled in order to get a hold of another?? Do you know anything about this?? ?? Anyways it would be a great help if you have any leads on such a part or any added info. We are on an all night search on line to all and every dismantler / auto wrecker in N. Calif. if that's what it takes, was very inpressed with your web site and hope your people can help in this what seems to be a rat race of a search.
Hi, I think your best bets are either wrecking yards or a dealer. The 1982 Honda Prelude uses strut inserts, which are still available from KYB. The strut housing, spring, and top mount are usually reused unless they are damaged (which I'm guessing is the case). Your car is old and most of the full service wreckers have stopped buying them. You would probably have more luck at pick-n-pull yards. But since pick-n-pull yards do not do any sort of inventory or disassembly of the car, you would likely need to go to several to find the part, then pull it off yourself. Whether it's worth it depends on how much free time you have. My favorite full service wrecking yard is Foreign Auto Wreckers (925) 706-0500. Talk to Carey, he's great. They probably won't have it but it's worth a try.
Good luck,
Paul
1992 Mazda 929
question = I recently purchased this car, from my friends dad who said it needed a fuel pump.I installed a new puel pump, New rotor, Distributer cap, wires, spark plugs & Ignition Coil. It still will not start. I was reading in the owners manuel that it has a kill switch if the car thinks its being broken into. I dont know if thats the problem or what it could be...im running out of Ideas, and money...PLEASE HELP! thanks,
Sorry to take so long to reply To be honest, it sounds like you need a good mechanic to look at the car, but I'll offer what help I can. Did the car run before the repairs? Or were the repairs done in an attempt to get the car to run? The first thing to do is figure out whether the problem is with fuel, spark, or timing. To check spark: cut the ground electrode off of one of your old spark plugs to use it as a spark tester. Remove one of the spark plug wires from a spark plug and plug the homemade spark tester into the end of the wire. Lay the spark tester on the engine block so that the metal part of the spark tester touches a bare metal part of the engine block. Have a friend crank the engine while you watch the electrode. If you see an arcing spark, then you can eliminate the ignition system as the source of your trouble. Don't touch the wire or plug while cranking - it'll zap you like a stun gun. It won't damage you, but it will hurt. If spark is ok, check for fuel. I'm guessing you don't have a fuel pressure gauge, so use this quick check: buy a can of starting fluid from the auto parts store. Remove the air filter and check spray a 3 second burst into the air cleaner housing (the engine side of the housing), then crank the car. If it starts for a second or two, then you have a fuel problem. Put a funnel in the gas filler neck and put your ear to the funnel. Have a friend push open the air door flap (in the upper air filter housing, opened earlier to spray the starting fluid) open with the ignition in the "on" while you listen. If you don't hear a faint whining noise, then recheck your fuel pump installation. If you do hear a whining noise, then there is likely a problem with the control of the fuel injectors, cam timing, ignition timing, or compression. None of theses are easy do-it-yourself diagnosises. You'll need special tools and more instruction than I can provide by e-mail. A factory manual (from the dealer) is always a big help, but they are usually kind of pricey (maybe $150 or so). If you have specific questions, feel free to write back and I'll do my best to answer. BTW, I started on the road to becoming a mechanic by trying to get a basket case 1972 Cadillac to run so I'd have something to drive.
Good luck with your project,
Paul
1993 Honda Civic
question = My question is very similar to that example on your home page.My 93 civic will not start on certain occasions.Once in operation it works fine.Distributor cap and rotor is new,Is there a possibility that it could be a pressure regulator.I might have another possible problem,I checked compression on all 4 cyl. (100psi first stroke which increases gradually to 160psi)indicating worn piston rings,motor has 173,000 kms does not puff smoke and does not take oil between changes(5000kms)Could this affect starting.Please help.thanks in advance for your taking your time to answer my questions.
Hello, If the engine will crank but not start when trying to re-start when the engine is still warm, then you likely have a bad EFI relay. The relay lives under the driver's side of the dash. I'd recommend just replacing it, as it is not very expensive (about $45) and a proper diagnosis will take a lot of time and patience. It is a little tricky to get to the relay. If you are interested in trying to do it yourself, e-mail me back and I'll provide more detailed instructions.
-Paul
1994 Honda Civic EX
question = The fuse for the battery is 80amp. I cannot find a repacement. Where would I be able to get one??
Hello, The Honda dealer is the only place where you are guarranteed to find a 80A fuse link. There may be some aftermarket availability, but why bother looking. I'm sure the fuse is very inexpensive from the dealer and you'll get the right one the first time if you order by VIN #.
Good luck,
Paul
General Auto Question
question = Hello. I googled on A/C information and happened to find your web site. Actually I was very impressed. I have never seen this detail and honest information written by auto service professional. I learned and enjoyed a lot especially for "car repair info". It might restrict and/or make some pressure on your work since you disclose pretty much everything but it makes consumer like myself feel very confortable to deal with you. Now I have one question on 1996 Dodge grand caravan SE. It is not Japanese but I hope you take this question since it is more on general I believe. I replaced radiator on Monday evening. Radiator replacement itself seems to be fine. However I think I lost A/C. A/C worked perfect or even more than usual when I drove it on Tuesday morning. However when I drove it on Tuesday noontime I hear "pseeeee" type of noise from air outlet. And it never produce cold air anymore. Radiator and A/C condencer was assembled so tightly that I needed to tweek them to remove old radiator out of the car. Also I did similar when I installed new one. Therefore I suspect I applied too much force on A/C line so that it got little crack or something. I am interested in repairing this if it doesn't cost too much. Or if there is something I can do to lower the repair cost (Of course I always assume that I don't break anything else :-) ) Could you give me your estimation on leak diagnosis in this situation and how long it will take ? If you have idea on possible cause and repair cost that will be great. Thank you.
Hello, Based on your description of the noise from the vent, and the fact that the AC did work for a while after your radiator repair, I'm inclined to think that the AC malfunction was not caused by the work you did to the radiator. Since the noise came from the vent, I think that the evaporator may have developed a leak. Any AC leak will be hard to find without special equipment though. You'll need an AC charging station ($3000) and a leak tester or an AC UV dye setup ($250). You may have to get some help from a pro on this one. You could likely do some of the R&R work yourself if you find a cool mechanic to work with you on the parts of the job that require special equipment. The mechanic could do the leak check and recover any R134a left in the system. You could then replace the leaking part. After that the mechanic could vacuum the system, charge the system and do another leak check. Doing your own R&R would not be a good idea if the leak is just an o-ring or something small, but it could pay off if the evaporator or other hard to replace component is leaking.
Good luck.
-Paul
1985 Nissan 720 Pickup Truck
question = On hot days, I'm getting a huge amount of vapor buildup in the gas tank which in turn seems to be affecting the overall performance (power, acceleration and gas mileage) of the vehicle. I also get a strong gas smell emanating from the vehicle when it's parked in the garage after use. In order to keep the vehicle running more smoothly, I release the built up fuel vapors by releasing the gas cap periodically when I am on a trip. It seems to help. During this time, I have replaced the O2 sensor (failed emissions test prior to replacement), spark plugs, fuel filter, vapor canister filter breather, fuel pump relay and fuel pump strainer (repaired @ auto repair shop due to vapor lock problem), OEM gas cap, air filter, and fuel check valve (probably unnecesary). I am currently looking at the vapor carbon cannister (or more specifically testing the purge control valve and the vent switching valve) or the EGR valve as the cause. Could this cause the problem that I have described or am I looking in the wrong place? Local auto repair shops are baffled by this problem. I need help. Thank you.
Hello, Some pressure or vacuum build up in the gas tank is normal. You say removing the cap during a long trip seems to help? Has this been repeatable consistently? You could try a couple long trips with the gas cap off so you can be sure that your problem is fuel tank pressure related. Be sure the tank is not too full though, since it will likely splash out through the filler neck around corners. Also, do enough trips so that you can be certain your problem is tank pressure related. My very first car had a similar problem, which I thought was vapor lock. It too had a mechanical fuel pump attached to the engine, and a long stretch of fuel line going from the tank to the fuel pump to suck gas from the tank. The problem with using suction to pull gas from the tank as opposed to an electric pump to push gas from the tank is that liquid will boil at a lower temperature at lower pressures. On a hot day, with the exhaust system and the hot asphalt road radiating heat under the car, fuel can boil in the fuel line, creating foam in the line. As an experiment, try sucking the foam off the head of your next badly poured beer with a straw. You won't get a lot of liquid in your mouth, just as the fuel pump will not be able to suck enough fuel. The easiest solution to the vapor lock problem is to install an aftermarket fuel pump near the fuel tank, and disconnect the mechanical fuel pump. This will eliminate the possibility of vapor lock. This is what I did to my first car when I was 16, only I did it wrong. When I hooked up the fuel pump, I pointed it in the wrong direction. When I powered up the pump it made a straining noise for a couple seconds followed by a ringing thud from inside the fuel tank, which I figure was a partially clogged fuel straining sock popping off the end of the fuel pickup. I never finished installing the electric fuel pump, but I never again had the a car stall and refuse to restart for 5 min. or so after driving for a while. Since you say you've already replaced the strainer, it's likely not the problem with your car, but maybe an electrical fuel pump would help. BTW, you never stated your actual symptom. Is it dying, rough running, lack of power? You can eliminate the EGR as a possible source of trouble by temporarily disconnecting the vacuum hose to the valve. You can eliminate the canister purge control by temporarily disconnecting the purge hose. Please hook the emission equipment back up once you are done with the test. As for the fuel smell. It could be a liquid leak or a vapor leak. Use leak trace powder or foot spray (see the first question on the top of this page for an explanation of how to use it) to find a liquid leak (gas evaporates quickly and does not leave much of a trace). For a vapor leak, you'll need to use a smoke machine click here to see a picture. http://www.artsautomotive.com/smokemachine.htm
1996 Mazda Protege 1.5L
question = I just had my timing belt, cam & crank seals, and water pump replaced at a local garage for preventative maintenance. It's a 1.5 liter 4 cylinder engine. The car ran and idled fine when I brought it in. When I picked it up it idled rough, and even rougher when I turned the AC on. You could even feel the steering wheel shaking, plus the engine makes a slight whining or rubbing noise that wasn't there before when idling. It seems to run fine going down the road at normal speeds. I think something is in wrong or bent. What do you think? Thanks for your time and advice.
Hello, You say the car has a rough idle. Does it also have less power on acceleration? The reason I ask is it sounds like the cam or ignition timing may be off. On a twin cam engine it is possible to set the cam that does not drive the distributor off by a tooth without noticing it during the final ignition timing check. Since you say the problem started immediately after the timing belt job it seems likely it's somehow related. Even if it's not the cam or ignition timing that's causing the trouble, it could be a vacuum hose that was accidentally knocked off while working on the car or a ground strap that was not put back on. The shop that did the repairs will likely offer to recheck the cam and ignition timing and take a look around for anything that might have been disturbed during the job. No mechanic likes to get call from another mechanic detailing how he just screwed a job up. As a mechanic, it's always better to find and fix your mess before someone else makes you look foolish.
You didn't say how long it had been since the repair. If you just picked it up and have not driven much yet, it could be that the computer needs a little time to adjust. The computer systems on newer cars have a basic set of base parameters hard coded into them: how much to open the idle air valve, what the injector pulse width should be at idle, etc.. As the car is driven these base parameters adapt to meet the real world needs of the engine. When the timing belt was done the battery was likely disconnected so the computer would have lost all that it had learned, leaving it to start from scratch all over. This would not take very long though. A couple trips should give the computer enough time to sort things out. The idle getting rougher with the AC on is "normal" with a rough running engine. The AC compressor puts a load on the engine, making a struggling engine struggle even more. Once the idle is sorted out, you should notice only a slight change in the engine speed when the compressor kicks on.
The whining noise you mentioned could be normal for a car with a new timing belt, or it could be an over tightened drive belt or timing belt. It's really a matter of degree. If it's really howling, then that's bad. Over tightened belts put a strain on the belt and the components they drive. This can lead to premature belt failure, premature component failure, or both. If it's faint, then it may not be a problem. There may one day be a mechanic who reads this and says, "There should never any whining after a belt replacement". Technically he's right, but in reality it's just not always possible to quiet a new timing belt completely. Even when it's the right application. Even when it's adjusted using only the tensioner spring pressure. Even when it's an OE belt driving all OE components. Toyota Tercels with 3E and 3EE engines are notoriously hard to keep from whining when new. Sometimes the only solution is to give the belt a little time to break in, then the whining will stop. This is not to say that you should not take the car back in to have the belt tensions checked -- you should, and you should be sure to get a repair order detailing your complaints. That way if the mechanic says there is nothing wrong, you have it in writing. Just in case you find yourself with a broken timing belt 30,000 miles later with the telltale deep cracking caused by over tensioning. You can prove you did your part.
Speaking of doing your part. You should bring your car back to the mechanic ASAP. I sometimes get calls from customers who think we're responsible for an "ever since you worked on my car" type problem way after the initial repair was done. A call a day after the repair is very believable. A week, still believable. A 2 months, getting harder to believe, but hey, people lead hectic lives these days. 6 months, getting very hard to believe. 5 years, ha ha ha ha (BTW, we really did have a customer come back after five years with no contact to fix a noise she claimed was caused by us)
I'd also recommend being pleasant with the mechanic. The bullying approach almost never works. If you are nice and honest, any mechanic with a good heart will want to help you. If you really don't trust the mechanic who did the original job (which maybe is the case since you're writing us), then you can always take the car to a different mechanic for a review of the original work and diagnosis of the rough idle and whining. However, you'll have to pay for it, and you may have difficulty collecting from the first mechanic without suing in the event that they did botch the job. Hope this helps.
Good Luck, Paul
General Japanese Car Question
question = white smoke after the car has heated up, When first started it doesn't smoke
You didn't say where the white smoke (steam?) is coming from, but if it's from the tail pipe, you may have a leaking headgasket. If so, you'll need to take your car to a shop with a 4 gas analyzer to have it checked for hydrocarbons in the cooling system. If the white smoke is coming from under the hood, it could be smoke from an oil leak onto the exhaust, or maybe steam from a leak in the cooling system. You ought to get your car checked out soon; the longer you drive it, the more likely you are to do additional damage.
Good luck, Paul
1986 Toyota Camry 4 Cylinder
question = Hi. The car has a manual transmission, and it idles normally at about 900 rpm. Now the idle cycles between 600 and 900 rpm, and when it dips down it sounds like the engine wants to quit (but hasn't yet). When the idle dips the dash lights dim a bit and go back to normal when the idles speeds up again. I think it is a problem with the idle control system. My understanding is there is a channel for air to go through which bypasses the throttle valve which is closed during idle. This is controlled electronically. It sure sounds like the engine is starving itself for air or fuel, which causes the pulsing idle. I have read on the net that one guy physically cleaned out the passage which was gummed up. Do you have any advice on this matter? I have the Clinton and Haynes manuals on hold at the library to see if there is any info in there. I realize if it is an electronic problem I'll have to take it in, but I would like to eliminate any mechanical problem first.
answer = Check your coolant level first. Surging at idle is a symptom of the "fast idle" portion of the idle air control valve staying open. If the coolant level is low, the bi-metal spring will not be warmed and the idle will stay high even after the car has warmed up. The computer will try to bring the idle down and surging will result. You can service the valve, but you won't find information in your manual. The official fix is to replace the valve. Maybe we'll post info on how to do this at a later date. I don' think that this would fix your current problem though. Good luck, Paul
1990 Honda Accord
question = My headlight is out and I cannot find how to replace the bulb. There are directios in the manuel for everything but the replacing the low beam.
answer = The headlight bulb is a small insert that plugs into the back of the headlight housing. Look for the wires that go to the back of the headlight. Press the release on the plastic connector and pull straight back (towards the rear of the car). Once you've removed the wire connector, turn the retaining ring counter clockwise until it comes off or until it stops. Once you've removed (or turned) the retaining ring, the headlight should come out when you pull on it.
Good luck, Paul
General Car Question
question = Hi, I was a customer last october and my car is in somewhat of bad shape. I was wondering if you have any advice on where to purchase a used car? i'm hoping to find something in the $3500 range. please let me know if you have any tips. I have a particular liking for honda's but i'm not committed to them.
answer = My standard response to the question "where to shop?" is, shop everywhere- ie., don't limit your potential for selection. The classified section of newspapers is good; Craigslist on the internet is excellent; the Buggy Bank on Shattuck in Berkeley is OK, and word of mouth can't hurt. I advise that you screen people for 'backyard brokers', who generally buy used cars and turn around and sell them for profit; the cars tend to be very hit-or-miss at best, and some brokers are plain scandalous; the indication of a broker is typically that they have multiple cars for sale, and have not owned them long. You should expect to make many calls, and expect to not buy the first car that you look at. Watch out for ANY suggestion that makes you feel pressured into making a quick decision (as in, "someone already said they would buy it later for my asking price" etc.). Finally, make sure the car is inspected by a third party; anyone not willing to let you take the car for an inspection probably has something to hide. Good cars in the $3500.00 price range: Any Acura integra you can afford; '88 and newer Civics, '90 and newer accords, '90 and newer Corollas, '90 and newer Mazda Proteges, any Nissan Altima, '90 or newer Nissan Sentras. All of these cars have their own quirks, pattern problems, etc.; all of these cars are better if newer and lower mileaged; all of these cars have significantly different driving characteristics. You should check them all out, hold out for a clean car with a nice owner, etc. etc. If you have further questions, feel free to call. Finally, a note for the wise: don't shop by price alone; often the owners of the best kept cars know how well they've kept the car, and price the car accordingly.
Good Luck, Lute @ Art's
1995 Toyota Camery 4 cylinder
question = When I start the car with engine cold, blue smoke comes out of the exhaust for 4-5 seconds and then stops. When the engine is warm, when I start it, doesn't smoke. I passed the emission test like this.
answer = The mid to late 90's Camrys have a pattern problem of internal oil consumption/burning; the 97 and later model owners should have received letters in the mail discussing the issue, and offering free engine repairs for the afflicted cars. The 96 and older cars have the same engine and the same problem, but Toyota has not been so generous with the repairs. The basic issue is, it is highly likely that you are seeing oil smoke from your tailpipe; the first step is to document your rate of consumption, then I would talk to Toyota about a possible goodwill warranty. If they stonewall you, your only option is to try oil treatment procedures; if that doesn't help, you will need to carefully monitor and top the oil, or consider an engine rebuild if the consumption is severe. For future reference, this whole problem stems from Toyota's (and many other manufacturers') lousy attempt to induce the false perception that modern cars do not need the same regular maintenance that cars once needed. It is important to change the oil every 3000 miles, not more than every 5000 miles if you want to push it. Toyota even states in their letter to the 97 and later Camry owners that their liberal oil change interval recommendations are not adequate.
Good Luck, Lute @ Art's
1994 Mazda 626 4 cylinder
question = where to set marks on timing gears on cam shafts
answer = There should be hash marks or dots on the cam gears depending on the engine in your car. If the car was set at top dead center when the belt was removed the marks should be lined up. If you have a 4 cylinder you may want to inspect the tensioner bearing. There was a bulletin to replace it with a updated part.
Good luck, Eric
1995 Acura Integra
question = My girl friend's 1995 Acura Integra has a problem with the automatic radio antenna. The mechanism that retracks the antenna is broken. The motor still works, you can hear it, but the mechanism that connects the antenna to the motor seems to be disconnected. I heard on CAR TALK that this can be fixed. Would you please let me know about how much it would cost to repair the retraction mechanism and also install a new antenna. Her car's is bent now after being caught several time when the rear hatch was being closed. Her car info should be in your system. She had it in your shop last fall for brakes.
answer = Hello, If the motor is
making noise when the radio is turned on or off then replacing the mast alone
may be an option. Usually one of three things happens when we repair an antenna
mast:
1. One mechanic removes the antenna retaining nut and another turns on the
radio. If all goes well, the remnants of the old antenna come out. Then the
first mechanic turns the radio off while the second mechanic feeds the new
antenna in. This option takes about 15 min and costs $18.75 in labor plus
$51.50 for the mast. However, this does not always work. Sometimes bits of
the broken antenna stay stuck in the antenna mast.
2. When broken antenna mast bits remain in the antenna motor we remove the
entire antenna assembly, disassemble it, and pull all the broken bits out.
This takes 45 min. and costs $56.25 in labor plus $51.50 for the mast.
3. Sometimes the internal motor gears strip out from straining to move the
broken / stuck antenna mast. This is not always apparent until we've completed
the entire job. It manifests in an antenna that does not always go all the
way down or all the way up. When this happens, we replace the entire antenna
assembly. We stick with the $56.25 in labor, but add about $290 for a new
antenna assembly. Call or e-mail if you have any questions, Paul
1995 Geo Prism
question = I just got my car inspected by the people who do my oil changes. They recommended some services, and I want a second opinion and estimate.
They recommend:
- replace rear
drum brakes because of leaking
- replace serpentine belt because of squeaking
- 4 wheel alignment
- new rear tires
- brake flush
I understand you can't tell me if you think I need these things until you see my car, but can you give me an idea of how much you might charge for some of these services? Also, given the age of my car, is it worth it to have all this done, or should I invest the money in a newer car?
Thanks!
answer = You gave no indication of the current mileage or vehicle condition; the Prizm is an excellent vehicle by design, but if it's gone to seed, it may not be worth a full 'resto' (restoration). As for the brakes, rear wheel cylinders run approximately $190.00; shoes and machining drums add approximately $121.47 if done together. The drive belts (you do not have a serpentine belt) run approximately $95.00 for the three; different Prizms may have a different number of belts- it's cheaper if you have fewer. A four wheel alignment is $82.50. Rear tires are size-specific, but are approximately $75.00 ptl per tire, and a brake flush is $44.50. We often find we disagree with other shops about recommended repairs; I would definitely suggest looking at it before making final decisions. Please call if you would like to discuss bring it to us. Thanks, Lute @ Art's
1994 Toyota Pickup
question = What do the electrical connections on the switches at top of travel and bottom of travel on the clutch pedal do? On my daughter's truck when the clutch pedal is depressed, the EFI fuse blows. Also, dash and tail lights fuse blows intermitantly, also when clutch is depressed, last time when the driver door was shut. Truck was stolen and power mirrors wiring probably pulled against something sharp in door
answer = The switches
on the clutch pedal are for the starter motor feed wire, which prevents starter
motor operation untill the clutch is depressed, and the cruise control, which
kicks off the C/C when the clutch is operated. The starter motor feed wire
(which runs through the clutch switch) should be entirely isolated from the
EFI circuit; I would initially presume the correlation to be coincidental,
but of course not rule it out as a possibility. The cruise control could be
tied into the EFI circuit, but I have never seen a C/C problem pop the EFI
fuse. You did not indicate the engine type; the four cylinder engines have
exibited a pattern where the engine wiring harness rubs through, and shorts
out the EFI Fuse. The damage occurs beneath the intake plenum; wiggle the
harness and see if the fuse pops. We have also seen O2 Sensor heater circuits
cause the fuse to pop; inspect all wires around the exhaust; sometimes it
becomes detached from the frame, and the wires melt onto the exhaust, shorting
out. As for tail or dash lamps popping fuses, check all the bulbs and bulb
sockets; frequently the short occurs there. Lastly, if the radio was stolen,
inspect and secure any loose wiring; the radio power, taillamps and dash lamps
share a power feed. If this does not help, you need to obtain a factory or
equivalent wiring diagram, study it and check things carefully. If all else
fails, we'd be happy to look at it for you. Thanks, Lute @ Art's
1989 Toyota Corolla
question = in the last month my car has begun hesitating when i press the gas pedal. this has been infrequent for the most part, and usually only when i start the car. then my car wouldn't start, and i had to have the distributor cap and sparkplugs replaced, along with accompanying wires. i have had my car back for two days, and now the hesitation has become much worse, happening more frequently, and getting really bad (almost bucking) when i go up hills. the car bumps when i am at a stoplight for more than a few seconds, repeatedly, and occasionally feels like it is going to sputter and stall. what can be the problem?
answer = My best guess is that your ignition coil is failing; this requires mechanical aptitude and equipment to properly check. Be aware, many mechanics will test an ignition coil by Ohming it out; your coil will usually test good that way, but still cause failures similar to what you describe. A visual clue to the possible failure is carbon tracking or oil deposits on the face of the coil. Also, if there is oil leaking into the distributor the inner shaft seal must be replaced to prevent a recurrence. This is just a guess; the range of possible causes is significant. Good Luck, Lute @ Art's
1998 Isuzu Rodeo
question = car
starts fine- stick shift will not engaged - or move I have to push on break
pedal to move shifter
answer = We do not service Isuzus, so I can only guess at your problem; any
time that a manual transmission will not shift through the gears, try turning
the engine off; if it now will shift, the problem is either the clutch, or
the cable or hydraulic system. Refer to Unitech @ 510-843-9118 if you want
a good Isuzu mechanic. Thanks, Lute @ Art's
question = I am having trouble with my defroster. When I switch from the panel to the defroster the air becomes colder. It is hot coming out of the panel and floor. When I switch to the defroster the air gets alot cooler. Any ideas on what this might be and how I could fix it? Thanks
We don't work on Fords and are not very familar with the heating and AC systems, but I suspect that the AC compressor is being turned on when the mode selector is moved to the defrost position and the cold air of the AC is being mixed with the warm air from the heater. If this is the case, it's normal. The air conditioning removes moisture from the air as it cools it. The drier air helps to clear the windshield faster. If you don't think this is the case and you still think there is a problem, or you want a more Ford savvy opinion, you could call Fred's Wrench House in Alameda for more information.
-Paul
question = I have a simple question. My dad always tries to tell me not to plug anything into the cigarette lighter because he claims in drains the battery. Especially those portable CD players. He thinks it can overtax the factory installed alternator and charging system which results in the battery to drain. Is this true? I always heard that as long as your car is running it automatically charges itself. Does something as small as a portable cd player or a cell phone affect it that much? If I ever do use either of these items it is only for a short period of time. Like maybe a 20 minute car ride. I also do not leave either of them plugged in when the car is not running. Please settle this dispute. He's always lecturing me on this and it drives me crazy.
answer = The amount of current a portable device draws is so insigificant and the way you described your usage should not shorten the life of the vehicle's alternator or battery to any noticeable degree. The alternator keeps a steady voltage whether it is cruising or idling and the battery does the work of providing power. While it is true that alternator life can vary greatly if the vehicle is used at night, in stormy weather, etc with the car's full electric system in use, the amount you are speaking of is similar to the radio being on. Daughter's happiness outways a few extra miles anyway.
question = Hi, Thanks for your article "timing belt story". My beloved Legend just turned 180,000 miles and is still running as smoothly as new (it's a Honda!!). It is officially time for its second timing belt but I was wondering if I was taking any risk by stretching it a bit - like to 200K miles. It's an expensive job so I would rather wait a little longer. Also, since I'm not afraid to work on cars myself (not this one - it's a Honda), could I replace the belt myself? How difficult? Is it too complex to risk it? If possible, what's the best workshop manual for the Legend? Thanks in advance for your expertise and advice. Cheers!
answer = We have not seen a 91-94 Legend timing belt break as yet, so I cannot guess how long it may be stretched. If the original belt was done at 90k, factory parts were used and there are no other issues in that area (leaks, noises, etc.), it is probably safe to stretch it to 100k. The first 'gen Legend belts were not known for breaking, and we've seen them do 120k and more; however, there is potential for engine damage should the belt break, so proceed at your own risk. As for doing it yourself, yours is one of the more comlex Honda belt jobs to undertake. Also, you want to replace the oil seals, water pump, tensioner bearing and small bypass hoses connected to the water pump. There is also a crank angle sensor mounted behind the drivers' side cam pulley; the insulation material commonly melts and runs down the engine block, leaving the pick-up windings exposed; we have replaced many of these in the past. Finally, the best (really, the only acceptable) manual is a factory manual; mis-information abounds in anything else.
Thanks, Lute @ Art's
1997 Honda Accord
question = Currently, I have 102,000 miles on the existing timing belt. How far can I push it on the existing belt?. I live in northeast.
answer = Honda says replace your belt @ 90k; they can go further, but it is impossible to accurately predict just how far. You should be aware that if your belt breaks, engine damage can occur; it is best not to take chances.
question = Do you know if the headers for a B20A will fit on a B21A1? As far as I can tell the engines are virtually identical except for the B21 having a bigger bore. Also, the seatbelt light for the drivers side and the door/seatbelt light comes on when I hit the brakes. Is there a sensor in the door that may need to be replaced?
answer = We do not do aftermarket repairs here, so the interchangeablitly of exhaust parts is not our forte; I'd imagine there are web sites dedicated to such swaps and mods. As for the brake lamps causing erratic dash icon operation, the first place to start is to check all the brake lamps; often the wrong bulb is installed or the lead terminals melt, causing a short circuit, which is what you are describing. If the bulbs are not the cause, you'll have to consult a wiring diagram, and proceed with a proper diagnosis of the circuits. Thanks, Lute @ Art's
question = We have now replaced the spark plug wires and the coil because it died on the freeway, but the problem persists. When it is really cold it doesn't do it and when it is warm it doesn't. Only between 50- 60 degrees. If I push on the accelerater slowly it will rev up smoothly but any sudden acceleration and the engine stumbles or dies. It also has started missing on the first start up. Is their a chance the cold start system is not operating??????
Thank you for your time.
answer = Well, my next guess is a torn air intake boot or a bad Air Flow Meter; carefully inspect for tears in the boot between the AFM and the throttle body; such tears will open up on acceleration, allowing unmetered air to enter the engine, causing stalling, etc. A bad AFM will also cause similar problems, but is harder to test properly (refer to a shop manual). Bear in mind that these are just guesses, based on familiarity with the car and problems it's prone to; the best way to deal with such problems is to properly test the suspect components.
Good Luck, Lute @ Art's
1994 Mazda MX6
question = Transmission "HOLD" light is now blinking. Is this an electrical problem or mechanical? Also, the check enine light is also on and I determined that that the NE1 sensor (distributor?) is malfunctioning.
Answer = The hold light being on can be either a electrical malfunction or mechanical malfunction. Usually when there is a transmission problem the hold light will flash. If the light is flashing and you can extract the code you should be able to diagnose the problem. Unfortunately the majority of the time you will find transmission replacement is needed.If the light is on solid you might have inadvertently turned on the hold switch. As far as the check engine light goes, these vehicles have problems with distributors failing. If the distributor turns out to be bad on your car, I would recommend replacing it with a factory distributor, not an aftermarket one. Good luck, Eric
2002 Honda Civic Ex
question = I recently had my dealer's service dept. perform the 30,000 mile serfice on my 2002 civic ex (bought new in November 2002). The bill was much higher than I had expected, btu all of the work they performed seemed to be correct when I asked for clarification. Upon reading my owners manual mroe closely, I realized that in addition to everything suggested by the manufacturer, they also replaced the transmission fluid, which the manufacturer says does not have to be done until 3 years or 60,000 miles. While I'm sure this new fluid does not hurt the car, I feel as though they slipped that service in as part of "their 30,000 mile recommendation" without telling me to make some additional money. I would like to call them on it. Do you feel that the manufacturer is correct in this case, or is the dealer right in suggesting a replacment of the fuild after the first 30,000 miles?
Answer = Hi, At times I am outraged by some dealer practices, but this is not one of those times. The dealer did the right thing by changing the transmission oil at 30K. Honda (the manufacturer, not the dealer) came out with insane maintenance recommendations starting with the 2000 model year. I've overheard new car salesmen saying things like, "You could weld the hood shut until 105,000 miles", which is when the first really big service is scheduled. Honda (the manufacturer) is misrepresenting the amount of maintenance your car really needs. For example, the Honda Civic uses screw and jamb nut style valves, which need adjustment at least every 30,000 miles, yet the first valve adjustment is due at 105K. I've not seen a 2000 & up Civic burn a valve yet, but I have seen two CR-Vs with valve damage at 45,000 & 50,000 miles. Honda (the manufacturer) is putting the responsibility of getting the valves adjusted on the dealer (or independent) techs by including the instruction "adjust valves if needed" in the workshop manual 30K,60K,90K,and 120K lists. Since Honda valves tend to get tight, and tight valves show no signs of being tight until it's too late and damage is being done, and there is no way check valve clearance short of removing the valve cover and checking all the valves, and checking the valves and adjusting the valves takes the same amount of time, "adjust valves if needed" is in essence the same as saying "adjust valves". Your warranty only lasts 36,000 miles, and there will almost certainly be no symptoms from their very light maintenance schedule in that amount of time. However, if you want to keep your car for 100,000 miles and beyond, you would be well advised to beef up the maintenance recommended in your manual. In my opinion Honda has traded the appearance of low total cost of ownership for their future reputation for reliability. It should be good for fleet sales, but bad for total sales in the long run. Here's the good news -- if you want to save some money, check your area for Honda specialty shop that has a good reputation. You will likely end up spending less money for a service that includes everything your car really need than you would at the dealer for just the services the manufacturer recommends. Good luck, Paul
2000 Mazda Protege
question = I just had my timing belt replaced (63,000 miles)per dealer suggestion. Now, it seems to run ok when the ac is off, but I notice significant power loss and roughness and laboring (esp. in 5th gear trying to go up even a very moderate hill at 55-60 mph). I took it back to the dealer who hooked it up to their computer and said it looks fine - I suspect they never drove it. What could be the problem?
answer = It sounds like your cam timing may be off; the cam timing refers to the relationship of the crankshaft to the camshafts, of which it is the job of the timing belt to determine. It is not uncommon that when a timing belt job is performed the relationship of these components becomes disturbed, such that one or more of the shafts is indexed improperly; the result is that the ignition timing may be off, or the valve timing is incorrect; regardless, this condition will lead to poor engine performance. It is our experience that many repair shops are reluctant to properly admit to improperly setting the cam timing; this is usually because a) it can be difficult to determine and b) it means doing the timing belt job again, which is a big hit to the overhead. As for hooking it up to 'their computer', this is always a sore spot for us; that is, the myth that one computer is the final word on what's wrong with a car. There are any number of 'computers' that can be used to gain information about a car; no single one can tell everything, let alone if the cam timing is correct. The long and short of it here is that I cannot tell you if you have a problem stemming from the work done recently, but you need to be sure that proper attention is paid to your concern. Good Luck, Lute @ Art's
follow-up response = Thanks for the diagnosis - I think you pretty much nailed it - when I finally got the problem resolved, the dealer said the problem was that the crank shaft was slightly damaged where the "key" slides on to hold on the crank shaft pulley, allowing the car to come out of time "acting like the timing belt was off by 1 tooth". They claimed they weren't responsible for any damage as during replacement of timing belt the pulley is not removed and any damage to key and pulley would have been unnoticed. Whatever! In any case, they fixed it, at no charge to me (that alone tells me something about responsibility), and now it runs fine. - only took 4 visits all told. Thanks for your input - You did better than the people looking at the actual car.
1995 Mazda 323 LS
question = How do you retract the piston when replacing rear disc brake pads - just by squeezing it back (there are not dimples for using a tool to screw it in)?
answer = There will be an bolt on the back of the caliper that can be removed. Once removed there is a bolt with an "allen" head. Unscrewing the bolt will retract the piston. Reassemble brakes and adjust bolt so that there is drag from brake contact. Good luck, Eric
1998 Geo Prism
question = I have been told that my Prizm has mostly the same parts as a Toyota Corolla so I am posting this here in hopes that you can save me before I drown! When I run the A/C frequently, I can hear water building up and sloshing around somewhere under the dash. The bad part is that when I make a left turn, all the water runs out and pours into the passenger footwell. Even worse are the right turns where cold water is dumped onto my foot as it is on the gas pedal. Is it possible for me to clear this clogged condensate drain at home (not having to lift the car up or remove the dash)? I have minimal mechanic skills but am willing to try. Thanks!
answer = You should have no trouble doing this yourself. Under the passenger side of the dash is black plastic box that houses your heater core and evaporator for the AC. If you look and feel along the back lower edge of this box, you will find a short spout connected to a rubber tube (approximately 14mm in diameter). The tube will be going towards the firewall (the wall between the engine and the passenger compartment). Remove the tube from the spout and blow compressed air through the hose. If you don't have a compressor, just drive to a gas station once you've found the hose and use a lever valve style tire chuck (tire filler) to clear it out. Good luck, Paul
1992 Toyota Corolla
question = I left my car in the driveway for a couple of weeks while on vacation. When I returned my rear (driver side wheel was frozen. What would cause this? Also how do I un-freeze the wheel so that I can drive it to a gas station to get professionsl repairs?...Thanks
question = We have seen this : it was raining a lot just before you went away, water has formed a rusty bond between your brake drum and brake shoes! You need to rock the car like when you are stuck in snow or ice and unlock it. Or tow it with the rear off the ground. You could hurt the brake shoes or need to resurface the drum, it might sound noisey when you use your brakes, drive or tow it to a mechanic for inspection, etc
1999 Toyota Camry
question = My Toyota has standing water in the back passenger-side floor. I have had prior problems with dripping on the passenger side (front) when running the A/C but nothing like this. It started about 1 month ago (summer). I have heard it is due to the A/C but I cannot seem to find the problem area. The car gets parked on an incline and we get very little rain. Please help!
answer = You probably have a clogged drain in your heater control box, where the A/C Evaporator lives. When air is sucked into the heater ducting, pollen and detritus enter as well; this then gets lodged in the drain tube. The cold Evaporator develops condensation from the moisture in the air, which then drops into the heater box and exits through the drain tube; if it is clogged with detritus, the water will collect in the box, then leak out onto the floorboard. What we do is blow out the drain with compressed air; this will be difficult if you have no air compressor. Depending on the configuration of your heater box you can often ream out the drain with cabling or wire; you have to locate the drain tube, which is on the engine-side of the firewall, roughly one foot in front of the passenger front floorboard; it is approximately finger-thick, usually 8" long; it protrudes through the firewall. Your level of success will depend on your persistence; you may find that it's easier to let a mechanic do the job (which is easy with compressed air and a rack). On a final note, every once in a while the amount of material causing the restriction is so massive that the heater control box must be removed to physically scoop it out; this is very labor intensive. Good Luck, Lute @ Art's
1993 Mazda RX7
question = Hi guys, I have kind of an embarassing story. I would like to take my car to a shop but due to the nature of the problem i don't feel comfortable bringing it in. My friend got good advice from you guys so i hope i can trust you. My friends and i were partying and a good amount of bong water spilled all over the dash and into the vents. Now when i turn the AC on i get a horrible odor. i've tried covering it up with air fresheners, but nothing seems to work. Next i called my boyfriend over because he works at ciruit city and is fairly knowledgable about cars. He poured liquid freshener down what he thought was the ac unit under the hood, now the car won't start at all. Now here is the real embarassing part. My boyfriend was looking under the dash for an electrical problem and says there are a lot of used condoms stuffed in various places under the dash. And I mean A LOT OF THEM! Neither one of us know how they got there, possibly the previous owner, or pranksters because i keep my car unlocked at night. Now you see how embarassing it would be for me to take my car in to a shop. So my question is, if i tow the car down there could you get it running again and figure out a way to remove those condoms and bongwater smell. Please please please this is really embarassing, and i need my car back. Thank you i await your response.
answer = Gee... Have heart, we're no strangers to bongwater and condoms; we may, however, draw the line at used condoms. So barring the aformentioned stipulation, we are here to help in your time of need. As to the resolution (and potential costs), there are no flat-rate guides that reference prophylactics or THC swill, we will have to see the car to assess the best course of action. Please call us to discuss the details of towing, turn-around time, etc Thanks, Lute @ Art's
1996 Mazda 626 4CYL
question = my mazda 626 (1996) idles very rough in drive...like at stop lights and such...other than that it runs fine...any ideas? thanks
answer = Your problem could be anything; based on historical pattern problems we've seen, my first guess would be a vacuum leak at the intake manifold; to check this, you must apply a fuel source in and around the intersection of the intake manifold to cylinder head interface; we use propane or brake cleaner; do this at your discretion, this can be a fire hazard. If the idle smooths out with the fuel enrichment, you are near the problem. To actually do the repair, you must remove the intake manifold; this is difficult and should be performed by a mechanic or someone mechanically inclined. So that is the first guess; to outline even the more probable subsequent guesses would be time consuming and unlikely to hit on the actual problem. Ultimately, you need to apply a method to the assessment; determine if it is an engine condition or otherwise, determine if it is mechanical, fuel or ignition related, etc. To do this, automotive experience is necessary. Thanks, Lute @ Art's
1993 Toyota Camry V6
question = My car suddenly overheated one day. I checked the oil and their was not a drop on the stick. I had previously got my oil changed about 6 weeks ago. There are no fluid drips where I park my car. I refilled the oil and checked the coolant also. It was a little low. It took about a half gal of water/coolant mix to fill top. I was tought to refill the radiator once the car was on if it needed more. The coolant remained completely still. I then put on the cap and watched the gauge. It still overheated and coolant quickly boiling over into the resevoir. I think the problem is the thermostat. A repair shop said that some coolant has leaked into the intake manifold gasket, from what he could see. They did not disassemble any parts. He also said I should probably replace thermostat and radiator cap at the cost of $440.00. Is the coolant leak from the intake manifold gasket really the problem? I dont think it makes sense. Wouldn't my car gradually run hotter instead of all of a sudden? Also, where did my oil go? Sorry if this is too detailed and a bit confusing. Just wanted to be thorough. Any feedback you can give will be much appreicated. Thank you. Car repair is pending.
answer = I've cut
and pasted sections of your e-mail and responded to each question/statement
separately.
My
car suddenly overheated one day. I checked the oil and their was not a drop
on the stick. I had previously got my oil changed about 6 weeks ago.
The overheating and the lack of oil are probably unrelated. Blow-by and oil
consumption can increase when a car is overheating, but it's doubtful that
over 2 quarts of oil loss could be explained solely by one overheating incident.
Your engine likely burns oil. You should monitor and log the rate of oil consumption
(x quarts per x miles) to determine how serious this problem is.
There
are no fluid drips where I park my car.
When an engine burns oil, there may not be any dripping under the car since
the oil is being burned and exits through the exhaust.
I
refilled the oil and checked the coolant also. It was a little low. It took
about a half gal of water/coolant mix to fill top.
A half gallon is more than a little low, it's about half empty if you don't
count the coolant in the overflow bottle.
I was taught to refill the radiator once the car was on if it needed more. The coolant remained completely still. There will be no flow in the radiator until the thermostat opens. By the time the thermostat opens, the coolant will have expanded from the increased temperature quite a bit, and if the radiator cap is not in place, it will make quite a mess. It's better just to fill the radiator, put the cap on, warm the car while watching the gauge, turn the car off and wait for it to cool once the gauge has reached 1/2, then recheck the coolant level.
It still overheated
and coolant quickly boiling over into the reservoir.
This could have been caused by an air pocket in the engine. Did you recheck
the coolant level? Was it low?
I think the problem
is the thermostat.
Could be. But your shop could be right too. An air pocket in the engine can
prevent the thermostat from opening until it's too late. Air does not transmit
heat as well as liquid.
A repair shop said
that some coolant has leaked into the intake manifold gasket, from what he
could see. They did not disassemble any parts.
This could be. I can't say without seeing it myself.
He also said I
should probably replace thermostat and radiator cap at the cost of $440.00.
I would agree
that you should replace the thermostat. Any time there is an overheat, there
is potential for the thermostat to get damaged. The thermal wax use in the
thermostat can "cook" and thermostat can stop working as a result. As far
as the cost goes $440 would be a ridiculous price for just the thermostat
and radiator cap. It seems like there must be more he plans to do for the
$440. Check into this before you continue. You can always tow your car somewhere
else.
Is the coolant
leak from the intake manifold gasket really the problem?
I don't know.
I don't think it
makes sense. Wouldn't my car gradually run hotter instead of all of a sudden?
If there were trapped air in the engine, it would explain the sudden overheating.
Also, where did
my oil go?
I think your engine burns oil. You should keep this in mind while deciding
how much money to invest money in repairs.
Good luck with your car, Paul
question = How can I replace the antenna mast on my power antenna?
answer = Turn the radio on, pull out the old mast; insert the new mast's nylon cord into the tube, turn off the radio, while applying light pressure downwards on the cord; this should allow the motor to grab the cord and draw it inward. Repeat this process untill the mast is fully seated in the tube. Having two people to do this helps tremendously. If you find the mast will not fully retract, you may have to remove the motor, open it up and retreive pieces of the old broken cord out. Be aware, sometimes this is a 10 minute process, sometimes no amount of fiddling will get the mast to fully retract; about 10% of the time mast/motor assy replacement is required to correct the problem. Thanks, Lute @ Art's
1996 Honda Accord 4cyl with AT
question = When letting off the gas in fourth gear (overdrive) A noise is heard like trying to start a car that is already running. When the gas is reapplied, the noise goes away. No noise in other gears. I had it to two transmission shops. Amoco says they don't know what is is. Rebuild $2000.00 recomended. Sterling says could be a sprage, $1000.00. I am 80 years old disabled WW2 combat Vet. (only one purple heart) I need the car for trips to the grocery store and VA hospital Would a oil purge on the transmission help. I was told Honda reccomends no complete oil change. Buying a new transmission would not bother me at all. I just would not pay my electric, gas and buy groceries for a few months. All kidding aside. If I drive only in 3rd gear (no noise) can I get by. Should I gave the oil changed. I found out the small garage I have service done, does not believe in honda tranny oil. Please help me with an answer. Thanks is advance
answer=Here are my comments in line:
>When letting off the gas in fourth gear (overdrive) A noise is heard like trying to start a car that is already running. When the gas is reapplied, the noise goes away. No noise in other gears.
The noise could be a lot of things. I've never disassembled a Honda automatic transmission, so I really have no idea what pattern failures might be applicable. Mike at Specialty transmission might be willing to take a guess for you. He does only Honda and Acura transmission and knows the product very well. His phone number is 800-400-0421, ask for Mike. He enjoys talking transmissions, so he may be willing to offer some advice.
You should also be sure that the transmission is the source of your trouble. It sounds like it is, but read the attached service bulletin just in case.
>Amoco says they don't know what is is.
Rebuild $2000.00 I'd recommend going with a Honda / Acura specialist. $2000 sounds low, but different area have different costs of living I suppose. Amoco may take the transmission apart and find something expensive and not included in the original price. You should be very clear on whether the $2000 is a "teardown" estimate, or a "guaranteed to fix it" estimate before signing on the dotted line.
>Sterling says could be a sprage, $1000.00.
Could be I suppose, did they say they've seen this problem before?
>If I drive only in 3rd gear (no noise) can I get by.
Yup. You might want to install an in-line filter on the transmission cooler line to trap any metal particles loosed by whatever is making the noise. The Honda part number for the retrofit filter is 25430-PLR-003. They are available at any Honda dealer.
> Would a oil
purge on the transmission help. I was told Honda recommends no complete oil
change.
>Should I gave the oil changed.
It probably would not help, but it's not a bad idea, especially if you plan
to continue to drive the car without fixing whatever is causing the noise.
A transmission flush coupled with a retrofit filter will help keep the amount
of metal shavings in the transmission fluid to a minimum. Metal shavings will
clog up the transmission solenoids and can cause all sorts of trouble. Honda
did publish an article in their newsletter titled "Say No to Transmission
Flushing Machines". However, when you read the article, the only objection
they cited was that many flushing machine manufacturers encouraged the use
of additives and non-Honda fluids. If you do a flush with Genuine Honda Transmission
fluid, there's no down side (except cost).
>I found out the small garage I have service done, does not believe in Honda tranny oil.
Bad mechanic! Bad! Someone hand me a rolled up newspaper.
Good luck, Paul